24h in the 17th district, what's on the programme?
A morning in the heart of the Ternes district
9h. Breakfast in a design hotel
Close to the Champs-Elysées, the Passage Doisy, cobbled like Old Paris, surrounded by lofts and beautiful buildings, hides theHôtel Doisy and its breakfast under the Paris sky. On the 1st floor, a veranda-lounge, always bathed in light, offers a breakfast "made in not too far away", where you can eat good, organic, local and gluten-free if you like. On the menu: jams and teas made in Paris, cake of the day, croissants and pains au chocolat from the best local bakers, soft-boiled eggs, French cheeses and homemade granola.
10h. Unusual architectures
Destination Parc Monceau, one of the most elegant in Paris. Leaving the Hôtel Doisy, takeavenue des Ternes, turn into rue Daru and stop at number 12, in front of the Cathédrale Saint-Alexandre Nevsky. A landmark of the 17th arrondissement, it was the first Russian Orthodox church to be consecrated in Paris, in a beautiful neo-Byzantine style. Then turn off at rue de Courcelles and stop dead at 48, the address of the Maison Loo Chinese pagoda. This building, inaugurated in 1926 by a successful art dealer, has been converted into an exhibition space for Chinese art in the heart of Haussmann-style Paris. A few steps along rue Rembrandt, and you're in Parc Monceau.
10h30. Walk in Parc Monceau
Beloved by Maupassant and home to the Parisian aristocracy, Parc Monceau can be discovered through splendid gilded gates. Inside: lawns to stretch out on, giant trees - look out for the Gingko biloba - and a series of monuments: rotunda, Egyptian pyramid, triumphal arch... Best breaks at the Parc kiosk for a coffee. Best children's entertainment at the Puppet Theatre. Best shot of romantic Paris on the Pont de pierres.
11h30. A Buddha in Paris
Visit one of the most secret museums in Paris: the Musée Cernuschi. One of the capital's oldest private mansions (1896), it is entirely dedicated to the arts of the Far East: China, Japan, Korea and Vietnam. The museum's centerpiece: the Meguro Buddha, an 18th-century bronze statue 4 meters high, offers a moment of pure meditation. Alternatively, you can visit the Musée Nissim de Camondo, a small, charming townhouse.
12h30. Rue Poncelet market
The Poncelet market: a tradition of the 17th arrondissement andAvenue des Ternes, just a 4-minute walk from the Hôtel Doisy. A daily rendezvous for Parisians (except on Sundays), who come here at lunchtime, stroll through the good cheese shops, sample fresh oysters, taste the Strussel from the Kaffeehaus, order the good roast chicken and make the rain and the sun shine. Between two stores, listen to Lorant Deutsch 's podcast "Paris : d'où vient le nom de l'avenue des Ternes". 2 minutes to learn all about the neighborhood's history.
13h. Bistro cuisine
An alternative to the sandwiches of the Marché Poncelet: Les Gourmets des Ternes offers a postcard of working-class Paris. Familiar to all locals, the address run by Jean-François Marie displays placemats on the walls, with photos of all the stars who have passed through here. Among them: Jack Nicholson, Johnny and even Clara Morgane. 60 years of history and 60 years of ordering: mayo eggs, rib steak and a salad of French fries. For dessert, stop by Fondant Baulois, a 2-minute walk from the Hôtel Doisy, and enjoy La Baule's iconic chocolate cake.
An afternoon in the Bois de Boulogne
15h. Relax at the Jardin d'Acclimatation
The Jardin d'Acclimatation on the edge of the Bois de Boulogne can be reached on foot (25 min.) or by car (6 min.) from the Hôtel Doisy. A children's paradise where you can ride the roller coasters, experience the thrills of the Side Cars, Speed Rockets and the latest ride, the Toupie, sail the canoes on the lake, meet the animals on the small farm or take a short hike alongside the ducks and swans.
17h30. Bouillon de culture at the Fondation Louis Vuitton
A 5-minute walk from the Jardin d'Acclimatation, follow the sign for the Fondation Louis Vuitton. An architectural monument by Frank Gehry. 12 glass sails supported by wood and metal beams, earning it the nickname "iceberg". Inside, there's room for some of the world's finest exhibitions. After Cindy Sherman, Bertrand Lavier, Gilbert et Georges and Jean-Michel Basquiat... Before leaving, head to the top floor for a spectacular view of the Bois de Boulogne and the Eiffel Tower.
An evening at Ternes
19h30. L'apéro parigot
Back to the Ternes district. Just a 5-minute walk from the Hôtel Doisy, head for Le rouge et le verre, the most famous wine shop in the 17th arrondissement. On the menu: a private table d'hôte, tasty white pudding, home-grown foie gras and the best bottles in the house to celebrate Paris.
20h15. Iconic dinette
Head to Timgad, an institution in the Ternes district, where you can order couscous and tajines in a Marrakech-style ryad atmosphere, with bow-tie service included. An alternative to Relais de Venise. 60 years after its opening at Porte Maillot, nothing has changed here. It's a good-natured atmosphere, with entrecôte-frites allumettes on the plate for everyone, and gourmet profiteroles for dessert.